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The Men's Shirt Fabric & Weave Guide
1. The different shirt fabrics & weaves
- Poplin
- Oxford
- Twill
- End-on-end
- Flannel
- Corduroy
- Cotton/Linen
- Textured Cotton
2. Choosing the right shirt fabric
- Which fabrics for which season?
- How to recognize a quality shirt fabric
- Which fabric for which occasion?
- What's the difference between poplin and oxford?
- Which fabric is the easiest to care for?
- What shirt to wear when it's hot?
3. Shirt Fabric Comparison
At Bexley, raw materials are never chosen lightly: all our shirts are made from 100% cotton or cotton-linen blends, carefully selected. These natural fibers are praised for their comfort, breathability, and durability—essential qualities for daily wear.
But beyond the composition, it’s the weave that gives a shirt its full character. Poplin, oxford, twill, end-on-end... Each weave has its own appearance, feel, and drape, shaping both the style and the comfort. Understanding these differences helps you make an informed decision, tailored to your preferences, the season, and how you’ll wear your shirts.
In this guide, we’ll walk you through the different types of shirt weaves, helping you grasp their specificities and identify the ones that best match your wardrobe.
1. The different types of weaves and their characteristics
The weave determines the drape, feel, breathability, and ease of care of a shirt. Here are the timeless classics of the modern man’s wardrobe.
Poplin

Poplin: elegance and versatility
Poplin is a high-quality fabric with a tight weave, offering a smooth and silky surface. This classic weave, often yarn-dyed, ensures rich colors and long-lasting quality. Light and breathable, poplin shirts are perfect for busy days or formal events. Easy to iron, they stand out with their understated elegance and versatility.
Smooth texture, crisp drape. Poplin is the very definition of the formal cotton shirt.
Ideal for the office or special occasions.
Oxford

Oxford: durability and relaxed style
Oxford stands out with its weave combining a colored yarn and a white one, creating a grid-like pattern and a slightly textured feel. Thicker than poplin, it offers excellent strength and easy maintenance. All our Oxford shirts are yarn-dyed, meaning the dyed yarns are woven to create high-quality fabric.
Basket-weave effect, textured hand. Oxford combines resilience and casual elegance.
Perfect for an urban look or a relaxed weekend.
Twill

Twill: strength and easy care
Twill is easily recognized by its fine diagonal ribs. This weave gives the fabric excellent stretch, greater durability, and low wrinkle potential. Easy to care for—just hang the shirt after washing. Twill is suitable for both formal and more relaxed shirts.
Diagonal pattern, natural flexibility. Twill combines elegance and practicality.
A reliable everyday ally for the discerning man.
End-on-end

End-on-end: subtlety and sophistication
End-on-end is a weaving technique that alternates cotton yarns of different colors, creating a subtle visual effect and unique depth. This fabric, always yarn-dyed at Bexley, offers remarkable softness and natural elegance.
Heathered effect, understated refinement. End-on-end elevates formal shirts.
Perfect for ceremonies and professional meetings.
Flannel

Flannel: warmth and winter softness
Flannel is created through brushing or raising the cotton, giving it a soft and insulating texture. This comfortable fabric is an excellent thermal insulator. Our 100% cotton flannel is ideal for winter shirts.
Soft touch, cozy look. Flannel wraps you in refined warmth.
Perfect for winter, from the office to the countryside.
Corduroy

Corduroy: style and autumn comfort
Corduroy, woven from cotton, is defined by its regular vertical ridges and washed finish. Its dense weave provides excellent protection from the cold while offering great flexibility.
Bold texture, velvety touch. Corduroy brings warmth to the season with elegance.
An essential for autumn and winter looks.
Cotton/Linen

Cotton/Linen: summer freshness
The cotton/linen blend combines the softness of cotton with the strength and freshness of linen. Cotton is hypoallergenic and easy to care for, absorbs moisture, and feels pleasant on the skin. Linen is known for its thermoregulating properties and softens over time. An ideal choice for a comfortable summer shirt.
Lightweight, breathable, naturally fresh. Cotton/linen is a must for sunny days and warm climates.
Textured Cotton

Textured Cotton: modernity and adaptability
Textured fabrics are created using different weaving patterns, which give the fabric a discreet texture and a unique tactile feel.
Subtle texture, modern look. Textured cotton invites contemporary style.
A versatile option, bridging formal and casual wear.
2. Choosing a Bexley Shirt by Fabric
- Which fabrics are best for summer/winter comfort?
For a comfortable summer shirt, choose:
- Lightweight cotton: poplin, end-on-end, seersucker
- Cotton/Linen: maximum breathability, soft on the skin
For a winter shirt:
- Flannel: warm and soft
- Corduroy: cold-weather protection
- Thick twill: good insulation, easy care
- How to recognize a high-quality men’s shirt fabric?
A quality fabric is defined by:
- Fineness and length of fibers (soft, breathable cotton)
- Weave density: durability and longevity
- Yarn-dyed: deep, long-lasting colors
- Pleasant touch and natural feel on the skin
- Easy maintenance: low wrinkling, good shape retention
At Bexley, we mainly use yarn-dyed fabrics to ensure elegance and durability.
- Which fabric to choose depending on the occasion?
- Formal event: poplin, end-on-end
- Office: oxford, twill
- Weekend: cotton/linen, flannel, corduroy
- What’s the difference between poplin and oxford?
Poplin is fine, smooth and formal – perfect for dressed-up occasions. Oxford features a thicker, grainier weave – ideal for a chic casual look and everyday wear.
- Which fabric is easiest to maintain?
Twill and Oxford are known for their easy care: they wrinkle less, hold their shape well, and withstand repeated washing.
- What shirt should you wear in hot weather?
Go for a men’s shirt in natural fabric such as lightweight cotton or cotton/linen. These materials offer excellent breathability and optimal comfort in summer.
Fabric Comparison Guide for Men’s Shirts
Fabric | Season | Style | Care |
---|---|---|---|
Poplin | All year | Formal | Easy |
Oxford | Fall/Winter | Smart casual | Very easy |
Twill | All year | Versatile | Very easy |
End-on-end | Spring/Summer | Formal | Easy |
Flannel | Winter | Casual | Easy |
Cotton/Linen | Spring/Summer | Smart casual | Easy |
Corduroy | Fall/Winter | Casual | Easy |
Textured cotton | All year | Trendy/Versatile | Easy |
At Bexley, we believe that fabric is the soul of every shirt. Our rigorous material selection ensures elegant, comfortable, and long-lasting garments.
Explore our collection of men’s shirts, find the fabric that suits you, and pair it with your preferred style: slim or regular fit, plain or patterned, French, button-down, or Italian collar... a complete range to match every taste and every season!